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Sol

Honestly, this Habersham Street eatery had struggled to live up to the reputation of it older, albeit more diminutive sister, Eos. But barely two months ago, owner Shelley Smith threw the pretty older sibling under the bus and announced she was focusing on two things: making art and molding Sol into a force to be reckoned with.

I’m happy to report the little sister is having her coming out party – and she’s the debutante that roared. Chef Aaron Doyle is kicking out dishes that are mature expressions of flavor, lay down a steady cadence of texture and are clearly the next phase of Sol.

The Trinidad Chicken was a beautiful “stew” over yellow rice. Big, tender chunks of white meat chicken are alternately sweet and spicy thanks to a homemade “Worcestershire” sauce. Tropical fruit salsa adds sweet and heat to panko and coconut encrusted Mahi Mahi. A big, tender portion of fish is enrobed in sweet coconut and perched atop a mound of nicely seasoned rice.

Homemade desserts are insanely delicious – we sampled coconut cheesecake and plum pudding.
The wine list has matured and, in true Shelley Smith fashion, is a stunning collection of comforting favorites and unusual treats — like a 100 percent Tanterra Tannat from Uruguay.

Smith and her chef promise additional dishes in weeks to come. With fall weather threatening to make our evenings more enjoyable, now might be the perfect time to rediscover, or visit for the first time.

1611 Habersham St./232–1874

Appetizers: $6–$9/Entrees: $80–$20

 

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About The Author

Tim Rutherford

Tim Rutherford

Bio:
Tim Rutherford grew up in rural Kentucky – then left home to pursue more than three decades as a photojournalist and newsman. A ground-breaking meal in New Orleans in 1979 set him on a path exploring food and wine. Six years ago he changed career paths – now spending his time writing about the people and places... more

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Connect Today 12.02.2016

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