Nevaeh Soul Food

I could throw a rock from my office window and hit the parking lot of this easy to access restaurant at the corner of Bull Street and Victory Drive. I remember when it was a cellphone joint, resplendent with an inflatable waving arm guy. The food here seems to be attracting far more clients than the prospect of unlimited minutes. I stopped in last week with my friend Joel and we ate like kings. My liver and onions were grandma-good -- a thick, nicely sauteed piece of beef liver was topped with just the right-sized dollop of brown gravy and lightly grilled onions. My sides were equally tasty. Okra and tomatoes swim in a mildly sweet broth and the okra are prepared nicely crisp -- not at all mushy and still retaining great shape, texture and color. The mac and cheese certainly fills the bill -- and warms the heart. A nice cheese blend adds variety and again, these folks are the masters of al denté -- perfectly prepared macaroni noodles were covered -- inside and out -- with the creamy cheeses. Throw in a corn muffin for good measure and you've got a rib-sticking lunch. Joel had an old-school sized mound of dressing topped with generous slices of white meat turkey and gravy. His sides, okra and tomato and four slices of beautifully fried green tomatoes disappeared off his plate like Houdini had joined us for lunch.
The best news -- our total bill, including one soft drink and water, was $12.99. Daily lunch specials are $4.99 -- meat, two sides and a cornbread muffin Had I not already been stuffed, I would have sampled a slice of homemade Red Velvet cake with sour cream frosting. Hmmm, that may just be afternoon coffee break next week! There are only 15 or so seats, so it doesn't take much to overwhelm the couple of employees. Any wait is worth the time.

2705 Bull St./232-3319

Around town...

Kudos to owner Brian Huskey for the great remodel of B. Matthew's Eatery at Bay and Habersham streets. The front door has been relocated, larger windows added and new paint spruces up the outside. It gives the place a whole new feeling.

Downtown sources tell me that Broughton Street is gaining a new restaurant tenant -- this one with golden arches. I'm uncertain of the location -- only to suggest that west Broughton between MLK and Jefferson seems likely.

The former Kilwin's Candy Shoppe window sprouted a building permit for a restaurant and bar called The Mirage. I'm still poking around on this.

And, the former location of Savannah Coffee Roasters at Congress and Bull streets appears to be staked out as the new home of yet another franchise sub shop. This leaves me to ponder how many more sandwich shops downtown can take -- especially when there are so many obvious missing cuisines for downtowners and tourists.




About The Author

Tim Rutherford

Tim Rutherford

Tim Rutherford grew up in rural Kentucky – then left home to pursue more than three decades as a photojournalist and newsman. A ground-breaking meal in New Orleans in 1979 set him on a path exploring food and wine. Six years ago he changed career paths – now spending his time writing about the people and places... more

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