21 Shortstop

Road trip! Slide your foodiemobile into overdrive and cruise up Hwy. 21, trough Garden City, past Port Wentworth and two miles north of the I–95 interchange, darned near Rincon, you’ll find the bright and shiny new 21 Shortstop.

This meat ‘n’ three seems off the beaten path, but enjoys a NASCAR–like stream of traffic every day. Signal far in advance – the tailgaters and speed freaks don’t wanna give you a chance to turn in! Assuming you make the parking lot safely, you’re in for a treat.

On my recent visit, I chose a “medium” plate, which was a foam clam shell brimming with food. A large would have definitely sent me napping. There were four or five meats to choose from, including baked chicken, but I went for a comfort food portion of liver and onions.

Yeah, I love liver, I grew up with it and we never knew we weren’t supposed to like it. My piece was tender, tasty and nicely prepared. Sides of sweet, silver dollar–sized slices of carrot, cheesy rice and broccoli casserole and three–cheese mac ‘n’ cheese were plenty filling, perfectly seasoned and well made. A generous block of mildly sweet cornbread was crumbly and added to the grandma–grade goodness of the meal.

While this is mostly a carryout place, there are six or eight tables located inside a screened in porch. Ample foam cups of sweet tea kept me cool and refreshed while I ate inside.

Facebook friends will find the menu posted everyday. Oxtails are a crowd pleaser – and I intend to go back on oxtail day. Now that’s some eatin’!

21 Shortstop is closed on Monday and opens at 11 a.m. through 7 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.–6 p.m./ 7962 Hwy. 21

Beer for my horses...

The Crypt Pub, 317 W. Broughton St., isn’t open yet but already has a Foursquare check–in. The buzz is the horseshoe–shaped bar is way cool – and the menu is getting daily tweaks prior to opening. Expect great craft beer selections and a menu a click or two above typical bar food.


Reader Laura sent me a note challenging my claim to the greatness of The Distillery’s fish taco. She prefers the “more flavorful” grilled fish or shrimp taco from Bonna Bella Yacht Club. Plus, she adds, you have choices of three garnishes – including papaya chutney or tomatillo salsa – and heartier side dishes of black beans and rice.  Thanks for the shout out Laura, I’ll give ’em a try!


More by Tim Rutherford

About The Author

Tim Rutherford

Tim Rutherford

Tim Rutherford grew up in rural Kentucky – then left home to pursue more than three decades as a photojournalist and newsman. A ground-breaking meal in New Orleans in 1979 set him on a path exploring food and wine. Six years ago he changed career paths – now spending his time writing about the people and places... more


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Connect Today 01.18.2018

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