Private thoughts on Public
Siblings are often so different. Thatâs what I found at The Public Kitchen & Bar, the younger sister of popular Local 11 Ten.
Both are handsome. The Public is trendy, wellâappointed and comfortable. Diners enjoy inside seating in a cozy lower level, by big windows overlooking Bull Street, on the bustling sidewalk or perched high above the Bull and Liberty intersection. The barâs inviting, with bartenders concocting soughtâafter craft cocktails.
The location is paramount to the monthâold eateryâs success. Although Broughton and Bull is much ballyhooed, this intersection is arguably the busiest, most restaurant-friendly bullseye in the city. The sightlines, the dĂcor, the design â all are perfectly conceived and imaginative.
The same canât be said for the menu.
Hereâs where the siblings part company. While Local 11 Ten set the pace for new dishes upon its opening, The Public is clearly more oriented to casual dining; dishes that wonât challenge consumersâ palates.
I was accompanied by three other guests so I could get a full overview of the menu. My New York strip, from a grassâfed supplier, was perfectly prepared to mediumâwell, but had fatty clusters all throughout the cut. It was satisfying, and a good value at $19.
Sides of mashed potatoes were dense and starchy; a pair of broiled tomatoes topped with cheese was short of ripe, the cheese topping rubbery and unappealing. Chimichurra sauce had intense flavor, but had separated into a watery puddle by the time the plate reached the table.
An appetizer of potato and bacon soup was built on a chicken broth base, and seemed to have had too much thickening agent added.
My friendâs jerk chicken was overcooked and dry. The jerk seasoning was mostly allspice, which had clumped and created an overwhelming coating. A quinoa base was moist enough, but lacked much flavor.
Another friendâs hamburger was the hit of the night. A big, spongy pretzel roll looked and tasted great, and the 8âoz. burger was beautifully seasoned. Still, side dishes offer only potato chips or pasta salad. Ă la carte sides can be added, like mashed potatoes, but none seem fitting for such a generously portioned burger.
My other friend liked his stuffed Portobello mushrooms but felt the stuffing was too cheesy.
A month into its birth, there is still no menu posted online for The Public; there have been repeated calls for a menu among the restaurantâs Facebook followers. This is a real oversightâunless, like me, owners and management know they need a good tweaking to ensure The Publicâs menu sustains in a competitive marketplace.
Itâs disappointing to see such a beautiful concept and location go lacking for a menu that fits its young, inventive personality. Itâs a great value if the menu fits your needs, and the wine list offers very fairly priced wines. Donât let the small brands put you off thoughâI did know several of the wines and they are remarkable little producers.
1 W. Liberty St., (912) 200â4045
Artisan breads with a cause
Savannah Technical Collegeâs Culinary Institute of Savannahâs Bistro Savoir is selling artisan breads and desserts prior to Thanksgiving.
The artisan breads and desserts will be locallyâsourced and handmade under the direction of Chef Jean Vendeville, worldârenowned pastry chef. Online preâorder sales are available through Nov. 15 or when quantities are sold out.
Artisan breads will include brioche, challah, dinner rolls, pumpernickel, focaccia and fougasseâa French version of focaccia bread made with bacon and herbs. Desserts include carrot cake, flourless chocolate cake, white chocolate pumpkin cheesecake along with apple, pecan and pumpkin pies.
Baked goods will be available for pickup at the Collegeâs campuses in Savannah, Liberty and Effingham on Tuesday, Nov. 20. Special arrangements may be made to pick up items on Friday, Nov. 16. For a pickâup schedule, a complete list of items for sale and to place orders, visit www.bistrosavoir.com.