Some months ago, we spent some time talking about all that was to be at 700 Drayton St. in downtown Savannah. The Mansion on Forsyth Park and its restaurant 700 Drayton were going away. Not physically, of course. The property had been sold and a wholesale remodel and rebranding was on the way.

At the time, I told you that if the final result looks anything like the renderings I had been shown, that this would become Savannah’s most beautiful hotel. That’s saying something because we have smokin’ hot ones in this town nowadays.

A couple of weeks ago, we got our first taste, pun very much intended, of what this new “urban resort” look in Savannah was going to feel like with the opening of their new restaurant, Saint Bibiana.

For starters, the remodel is stunning. It didn’t take a degree in interior design to realize that the old ‘hunting lodge’ motif that existed in that space before had run its course. The new concept is “coastal Italian.” The bar, albeit a little smaller than I thought it would be, is beautiful. The work done in here was executed well. A promise, I’m sure, of things to come when the rest of the hotel opens after a complete renovation in February.

For its first two weeks, social media buzzed plenty with locals flocking to this new restaurant for a look at the latest addition to Savannah’s ever-evolving food scene. Seemingly 80 percent of the population rolled through, eating and liking. I was peppered with text messages from friends sharing their initial experiences at Saint Bibiana.

When I finally got there a week or so later, I was impressed with what they had done. I had already enjoyed Chef Derek Simcik’s food several months ago, so I was able to put it all together before we even ordered an appetizer. This restaurant and this property are a most definite next step for Savannah and her food scene. A cut above? It may very well be, eventually. That’s a role I think they could grow into.

For starters, I couldn’t help but think back to The Florence, Chef Hugh Acheson’s Italian concept that opened in 2014 on Victory Drive. At the time, The Florence was way ahead of the culinary curve in this town. Back then, Savannah heard ‘celebrity chef’ and everyone assumed we were going to get the best veal parmigiana in town. That never happened and it’s not going to happen here at Saint Bibiana either.

There were a lot of reasons why The Florence’s run only lasted three years, but that’s not a story for another time. I will say this, we are now nine years down the road in our evolution as a small ‘food city.’ Savannah-and its millions of visitors per year- are far better prepared to embrace this concept today than we were almost a decade ago. And that’s a good thing.

I don’t know if I can say that Saint Bibiana is now Savannah’s most expensive restaurant, but it most certainly falls among its top three. That said, if you’ve followed my work for any length of time, then you know that I don’t ever make an issue with what something costs. If a meal is out of someone’s price range, it is what it is. If the food is good enough, there will be people willing to pay for it.

That’s what I see is happening here. Plenty of locals are going to enjoy this restaurant, don’t get me wrong, but this is a next level ‘big city’ vibe, feel, and menu. That comes at a cost. Consider the envelope pushed.

Overall, my dinner was fantastic. There were some hits like the Cavatelli Sardi (spicy Sicilian ‘nduja, sweet sambuca, Parmigiano Reggiano) and some misses, but that is to be expected early on.

The desserts almost stole the show. They were a fabulous compliment to a great meal. Service, while choppy, was good overall. There were a couple of awkward pauses during the evening that made me wonder if they’d forgotten about us, but that is also to be expected early on, especially in a restaurant this size. The wine list is beautiful and reasonably priced. I look forward to making my way through it.

That said, I’ve heard from a few people whose experiences were less than flattering on their initial visit. A forty five minute wait for an espresso martini is excessive, under any circumstances. I make a point of this because if you are going to push that envelope, then the expectation needs to be met. But they know this and I have every confidence they will get it fixed in short order.

Saint Bibiana is a potential jewel in Savannah’s culinary crown. When Hotel Bardo opens early next year, this has all the makings of eventually becoming one of the most desired locales in the state. I do believe that.  I’m already looking forward to my next visit. Maybe a seat at the bar for pasta and a glass of wine or two. If you haven’t made it there yet, give it a try. You’ll eat it and like it.

This article appears in Connect Savannah | October, 2023.